Compass Rose table top

Celebrating ten years back home at 28Β° 19′ N by 80Β° 36′ W!

This year marks my tenth anniversary of returning home. It’s mind-boggling, really, that it’s been that long, but then again, it’s pretty hard to believe that next year will mark my seventh year of existence here on Mother Earth.

Teak End Table circa 1991

As noted elsewhere, I developed a passion for woodworking early. In my first ‘garage/shop’ in Washigton, I proudly displayed a hand-lettered sign that said:

He With The Most Toys Wins!

When I moved to Germany in 1987, I closed shop until my return three years later. I had moved back to Colorado and was living the dream, traveling around the world and working at Hewlett-Packard’s corporate machine. I outfitted my basement as my first dedicated woodworking shop with new stationary tools. There was an excellent lumber store in Fort Collins. I used our most excellent 2D CAD systemβ€”ME 10β€”and started designing and building the furniture for my new home in the Rockies.

CAD drawing for Teak Stereo Cabinet circa 1993

For a while, I thought Colorado might be my new home. I liked it there. Unfortunately, the job was changing fast, and I found myself on the outside looking in. In a stunning display of madness, I made a sharp right turn and ended up in Atlanta for nearly 19 years. The last 15 years were spent as a different version of myself, constantly at odds with the part I left on the left coast.

When I finally escaped the madness, I ended up back where it started: Cocoa Beach. I was home and have now lived here longer than anywhere else. I had envisioned this day for decades, which was one reason I moved to the Southeast in the mid-1990s. After I retired in 2020, I built a dedicated shop in my backyard.

Before I escaped, I had to refinish that first piece of furniture that I built for myself (and still owned). I screwed up and sanded through the teak veneer while refinishing it. After moving back, I had an idea to replace the top with a compass rose with the position of Cocoa Beach on it. It was on my list for over ten years before I acted.

When I first saw the Shaper Origin router demonstrated several years ago, it showed a craftsman using it to inlay a compass rose on a hardwood floor. That is precisely what I was looking for! My comments concerning this incredible tool are elsewhere.

Build

AutoCAD design sans lettering. I used this for the individual segments.

I created the base layout using AutoCAD, imported it into Shaper Studio, and added the lettering.

My idea was to use walnut and maple for the rose pieces and zebrawood for the ring segments. The overall background would be quarter-sawn mahogany, and the lettering would be maple.

The lettering capabilities had recently been upgraded, and I found a simple letter font that worked well for inlay. There is no lettering on a curve capability yet, but manually rotating the letters worked well enough.

Shaper Studio. The base design was imported as a DXF. The lettering was added using the Text feature. The interior parts of the rose (not shown here) were cut out separately.

I quickly learned that paying attention to the jig used to lay out the optical tape for the router pays off. I try to keep everything coplanar and provide surfaces for moving the tape smoothly. Once a good set of markers is established, I am always stunned at the router’s accuracy and repeatability.

Routing layout. The mahogany veneer is glued to 1/8 inch baltic birch and is held securely with screws and double-sided tape. The additional panels on top and bottom have been adjusted to be approximately co-planer with the work. Everything is screwed or taped onto the 1/2-inch MDF underlayment. Optical tape is applied every three inches.

The first step is to cut the main layout, which is cut precisely as designed. Offset is added when cutting the ‘puzzle’ pieces to facilitate assembly.

Cutting the main layout. The display is zoomed out to show the entire work area. Everything was aligned visually against reference points on the veneer.
Completed cutout. The only adjustments needed are to cut the ‘points’ when the inlaid pieces are added.

Double-sided tape keeps the pieces in place, and the through cuts are made. The cut pieces are easily removed by gently lifting them with a small, smooth pry bar.

The next step was to cut out the interior pieces. I used the Shaper Workstation to do this. I learned that adding about 0.005″ inch offset to make these pieces undersized made for easy placement with no sacrifice in appearance.

Interior pieces are cut out quickly using the Shaper Workstation.
Final Layout. I cut out 12 Zebrawood ring segments so the grain ran roughly parallel to the radial lines. The final result was exquisite.

The next step was new for me and involved cutting the letters directly out of 0.030″ wood veneer with a paper backing. The letters were small, too, especially some of the symbols. I held the veneer with double-sided tape and cut the letters to size. I was impressed at how resilient the cut letters were when removing them from the tape and cleaning the edges. It was much easier than I anticipated.

Inlaying the lettering. I used the Shaper Plate to cut a slightly oversized pocket to glue the cut letters. A 0.008-inch offset was about right for the thinner veneer.

The final step was to add the coordinates. I used the original larger design to facilitate cutting the pockets for the individual letters. I was impressed with how accurately I could set up the tool paths using visual references.

Adding the coordinates: I returned to the larger cutter layout to apply the smaller coordinate letters. I used the N letter to align the layout of the work visually. Again, I was impressed at the tool’s accuracy, as the letters aligned perfectly with the original design.
Inlaying work done. Coordinates were added to the ring.

Cutting the slightly smaller letters, including the small degree and minute symbol, was no problem. I glued each one in as I cut them. This was, again, much easier than I anticipated.

Final with Paduak frame and finished with Monocoat pure and Sheen.

The final step was to cut to size and add the outer edge. I used Paduak for this, which I thought made the piece pop.


β™‹οΈŽ Numbers

I have always been fascinated by numbers. There are two from my early childhood that stick out.

45

When I was in elementary school, I was a crossing guard. If you can believe it, they let elementary school kids stand at the crossing for the other kids attending school. I wanted the job because you got this ultra-cool sash that you wore.

Respect My Authority!

I remember standing at the corner of Minuteman Causeway and Brevard with my cool crossing guard sash on, helping the other kids who basically ignored us 🀣. For whatever reason, I was thinking about the turn of the century, which was still many years off. I did the math and determined I would be 45! I was stunned – I guess it was the first time I actually wondered what my life would be like as an adult. I know for sure now that whatever happened, I would be 45 at the turn of the century.

I thought about this over and over until it actually occurred. At the time, I had gotten married for the second time to a woman with a six-year-old daughter. I didn’t see that one coming! 😳

69

This year, I turned 69. It is a unique number in a couple of ways.

It is known as a semi-prime because it is the product of two prime numbers, 3 and 23. Prime numbers have always fascinated me

If you multiply 69 by all the individual numbers preceding it (aka factorial), you get the value 1.711224524Γ—1098. When electronic calculators came out, they had an upper limit ofΒ 10100Β (also known as a googol). So, if your calculator had a factorial operation, you could get this number to appear. Any number higher than 69 would give you an error. I remember trying it out on my brand-spanking-new TI-56 programmable calculator when I was in engineering school.

As an image – well – I don’t need to tell you what that means. It is universally known!

♋️

I was in junior high school riding home from school one afternoon. The junior high school was further away than the old elementary school, and in the afternoon, you always had to fight the strong breezes coming from the ocean to get home. I used to dread it πŸ˜†.

Somebody earlier in the day told me the ‘naughty’ meaning of 69 😍. For whatever reason, I remember riding home that afternoon fighting the hurricane wind and thinking to myself:

Why would anybody want to do that?

Happy Birthday to Me 😎

Homeland

Cades Cove ~ Smokey Mountian National Park

After our excursion into America’s Heartland, I was homeward bound. I stopped and visited some friends in Tennessee. They live in Tennessee’s version of Florida’s Villages. Conspiracy theories abound here, as I parked my trailer under a Trump flag! I was in the presence of the Global Elite, and they didn’t even realize who they were. It was a truly surrealistic experience.

Tellico Lake Floating with the Christian Nationalists. Bless their hearts!

We did have a nice visit to the Great Smoky Mountains Heritage Center in Townsend, followed by a long, slow drive into Cades Cove. This early settlement was absorbed unwillingly into the National Parkβ€”more seeds of discontent for the Federal Government.

Great Smokey Mountain Heritage Center

We left, heading southeast towards the coast. The drive through the Smokey Mountains was beautiful. We did the same drive last year but headed south toward Scaly Mountian, NC. This time, we went east and left the mountains once more for the less interesting drive to the coast and back home.πŸ‘©πŸΏβ€πŸ¦³


Lessons from The Heartland

What did I learn about the Heartland?

Corn is King!
  1. Corn 🌽 is King!
  2. It’s fucking big! I am glad I took as much time as possible to see what I did, but I think it is enough for one lifetime.
  3. ⬆️ The vibe improved considerably the further north I went. ⬇️ It pretty much went to shit when I was back in the South. πŸ’© Tennesse was the fucking worst.
  4. πŸŽ–οΈ Wisconsin’s Driftless region is the best place I visited. I would live there except for the winters. It looks like the perfect place to raise a child like Theo!
  5. There are not many brown πŸ‘¨πŸ½β€πŸ¦° or black πŸ‘©πŸΏβ€πŸ¦³ faces the further north you go (at least where I visited in the country).
  6. I have an increased appreciation for farming and the farmer πŸ§‘β€πŸŒΎ, especially the work ethic and commitment. I can understand a bit better how this contrasts with the urban environment.
  7. If I feel something is too much from here on out, I will reconsider my decision. Hiking four hours and 1600 steps in the Bat Cave was not a good move. I ended up suffering the rest of the trip and having a less enjoyable time overall. However, I can live with pain if I have to, it seems. Maybe that is another perk of growing old.

😳

5,000 miles ~ 31 nights ~ Six stops ~ Another Excellent Adventure!


Final Thoughts

Are We Home Yet?
Ad in Georgia on I-95
Free from the tyranny of The Godless Hordes coming to get you this Fall!
When I got home, I parked out front, opened up the house, and ate some lunch. I returned outside to find this ticket. I guess this helps pay for those Ads in Georgia.

The Elixir of Life

Quapaw Bath House

In 2023, I visited Palm Springs, which became famous about 100 years ago for its natural hot springs with mysterious restorative powers. Hot Springs, Arkansas, has been famous for its rejuvenating waters for nearly two centuries! Many different bathhouses were built offering luxurious spa treatments that somehow look like a method of torture today!

Various devices have been used since the early days of Hot Springs. I don’t even want to know what the firehoses are about 🀣.

The area was established before the concept of a national Park was founded. As such, the whole town is, more or less, a National Park. Hot Springs itself is in the middle of many lakes that provide recreationβ€”almost sort of an early spot to travel to to see the natural wonders of nature.

Hot Springs Arkansas

Other than that, the town is basically a tourist trap. Much like a ski town you would find elsewhere. However, the architecture and history are quite interesting.

There were once over twenty different bathhouses in the area, including nine on Bathhouse Row, where I visited. The buildings are mostly repurposed now, although two still operate. The area around these is very touristy, as are the outlying areas. Water Parks, roller coasters, and a giant concert hall with all your favorite country and western performers play in America’s Heartland.

Public Well at Hot Spring National Park

At one end of the row of bathhouses was a public well. I talked to a guy who was filling jugs to make coffee. Another guy related a story about a family loading up a 55-gallon drum! Apparently, they used it for almost everything!


Southwards through the Heartland

Sunrise at Sioux Falls, South Dakota

After leaving North Dakota, we spent six days traveling leisurely southward through the region west of the Mississippi. We drove around 200 miles per day on average and drove the back roads as much as possible to get a better feel for the state and area

South Dakota

South Dakota – Puppy Dogs Beware!

We stayed that evening in Sioux Falls. We heard the falls looked like tiny Niagra Falls, so we had to take a look. The park at the falls provided a most excellent sunrise walk!

Big Sioux River in Sioux Falls

The Big Sioux River was above flood stage. I saw other places further south where the rivers had swollen their banks.

Flooding in South Dakota

Nebraska

Nebraska Makes Fifty

When I worked for Hewlett-Packard, my first job involved supporting marketing and sales activities in the Midwest. We had just introduced Tsunami, a 2-channel digital signal analyzer that proved to be a big hit for mechanical testing. I spent several weeks visiting many of the sales offices in the region. I made it to all the states except one: Nebraska. I did land at the airport in Omaha and change planes, but I always remember I never actually made it there.

Nebraska Makes Fifty

I must say I liked the little I saw driving through the Winnebago Indian Reservation there. It seemed like it had a nice vibe.

Swedish Church in Oakland, Nebraska. It was interesting how the different European cultures persisted after settlement in the last half of the 1800s, another consequence of the inheritance laws in Europe at the time.

I stayed too far away to see Omaha and the next night outside Kansas City. They were both quite a bit bigger, which made for an interesting and sometimes frustrating excursion.


Missouri

Missouri

Northern Missouri had some nice areas, like Lake Winnebago. This name appeared at various points so far in the slide south. It is associated with the Ho-Chunk people who were forcibly resettled in many of the states along our route.

Missouri Crop Fields

The northern part of Missouri resembled the rolling hills and crop fields of Nebraska. As I moved further south, it became less developed, at least along the route I chose.

Lake Winnebago Missouri

As we drove further south, the landscape changed to resemble the South. Many churches and the Ten Commandments started appearing on billboards. It was not a great vibe compared to the earlier part of the trip. We were now in the Ozarks.


The Ozarks

The Ozarks in Missouri

The Ozarks have always had an interesting connotation to me. My Mom had religious survivalist friends who lived here and took her money for bullshit supplements. It seemed to be a hotbed of addiction when meth became popular. It’s sort of a white trash state in my mind.

Despite my astounding prejudice, I found a certain beauty here. It’s pretty much the same as any place in the rural south. It’s sort of an ‘unchanged by time’ vibe.

Fort Smith, Arkansas, was a strategic fort on the Missouri River in the 1800s. It played a big role in suppressing the Indian uprising and the infamous ‘Trail of Tears’ relocation of the indigenous people to Oklahoma. Most of the structure you see here was a prison.

The final drive into Hot Springs was quite nice. We climbed to around 1500 feet and saw some great visits. As we got closer to the Ozark lakes, more vacation rentals and boats started appearing. We were headed for one of the playgrounds of this part of the country.


The Heartland

The Families of the Heartland

Over two years ago, I planned to visit Wisconsin to check in on 6-month-old Theo. However, my knee had other plans after needing a major overhaul. With that under my belt, we came up with Excellent Adventure 2024 to visit them and, as an added bonus, my sister-in-law Myhra’s brother Richard and his wife LaRae at their home/farm /woodshop literally in the middle of (nearly) Nowhere, North Dakota.

Wisconsin Driftless Farm Country

Theo lives with his Mom, Dr. Kari, and Dad, Carl, in La Crosse, Wisconsin. I visited here a little over three years ago when Clan Tubridy gathered with Clan Bringe to celebrate Theo’s upcoming birth. This area, unaffected by the glaciers at the end of the ice age, is beautiful beyond words: rolling hills, windy farm roads, picturesque small towns, and lots, and lots, of farms.

The Bringe Farm: Mary Jo, Uncle Alex (aka Stewie), and Dad Carl. Theo is busy pushing the buttons!

Theo is two and a half years old and a sweet, inquisitive, and well-behaved little dude. We had many adventures in the three days I was there! On the first day, we visited Armand and Mary Jo at the Bringe homestead. Their oldest son, Alex (aka Stewie), would let some of his cattle out onto a new pasture.

Who Let the Cows Out?

We got to watch. It was very cool and somewhat surprising that some of the cattle were apparently afraid of Theo! Later, Theo rode in various tractors – John Deere Green Tractors – with Grandpa and Uncle Stewie! We hung out at the farm before heading back home for the day.


Country Farm Breakfast

Country Farm Breakfast

The next day, Kari joined in, and we had a treat that really made the whole trip. In the morning, we went to a Country Farm Breakfast. These are held at different farms in the area and supported by the various farming associations, youth organizations, and the community as a whole.

Country Farm Breakfast is an organic dairy farm with Jersey milk cattle near Harmony, Wisconsin.

This was hosted at an organic dairy farm. I got to see the cows and talk about milking with one of the experts.

There was a good turnout despite the mud. Yep – it was raining, and on a farm, that means mud! Despite (or perhaps because of) the weather, everyone was having a fucking blast as near as I could tell. I loved watching old and young families and seeing how big a part of their kids are. Humbling. If I were raising a young family, it would be hereβ€”a beautiful sight. Theo’s grandparents and uncle were there with people they had known their whole lives.


Norskedalen Nature & Heritage Center

Norskedalen Nature & Heritage Center

We then drove around in more of the most beautiful country I have ever seen. The people of Norway (including the Bringes) settled here and brought their heritage with them. In this case, a Norwegian homestead is now called Norskedalen Nature & Heritage Centerβ€”our next stop.

It was a celebration day for them, too! We watched a Maypole dance, a young girl churning butter, and traditional Norwegian handicrafts. Theo especially enjoyed the blacksmith’s fire πŸ”₯.

A Troll along the path at the Norskedalen Nature & Heritage Center

I saw a Muskrat in a nearby lakeβ€”more or less a giant swimming rat. There were trails for both hiking and riding. Many volunteers were there, demonstrating and discussing the history of the craft and partaking in various crafts. At one point, traditional feats of strength like the Hammer Throw were demonstrated. It was big fun!


The Circus

Cirque Italia
Theo at the Circus

After a quick nap back home, we headed out for the Circus! We saw a traveling circus called Cirque Italia. A group of about one dozen performers from all over the world performed for us, including aerial acts, juggling, balancing, dance, a light show, andβ€”of courseβ€”a clown. It was more big fun! I was exhausted and passed out upon arrival home!


The La Crosse Queen

In the late 1800s, travel by paddlewheeler was the norm for people living along the Mississippi. Families would travel to visit friends and relatives and to shop. Our boat, although no longer a wood-burning engine, was from a long line of these boats.

La Cross Queen Riverboat Ride

A trip on the river had been on my bucket list for a while: a paddle boat tour of the Mississippi. And for an extra bonus, the river was at flood stage! It made for quite a sight, especially as we approached the dam to the north of La Crosse. Thro’s grandparents went, too, and I enjoyed Armand’s deep knowledge of commerce on the Mississippi.


Drive to North Dakota

Later that afternoon, we hooked up once again and made our way northwest into Minnesota.


Somewhere near Middle Spunk, Minnesota 🀩

After an uneventful overnight outside Minneapolis, we made it to our second stop somewhere in southeastern North Dakota.


North Dakota Farmlands

Wimer Farm, North Dakota

Rick’s wife, Myhra, is from North Dakota. One of her brothers, Richard, lives on a farm near the town of Gwinner. His wife LaRae worked as a heavy machinery operator at the nearby Bobcat factory. They raise two daughters and have now retired. They are both woodworkers! They have a good-sized garden, and I watched them dig potatoes for the evening meal.

Taters! What’s Taters, Precious? PO-TA-TOES – you can boil ’em, mash ’em, and stick ’em in a stew!

When I first learned woodworking, I read about it and assumed that many farmers were woodworkers. Their shop reminded me of another friend’s acquaintance in Maine, whom I visited in 2022. He was a canoe restorer.

One of Richard’s Band Saw Boxes. The drawer recesses are cut using a bandsaw. He also turned different wood burls into bowls and other shapes.

Richard has made some stunning bandsaw boxes and turned pieces. They had machinery in several buildings and pieces of wood lying everywhere! He was very generous and gave me a few choice pieces, including a live-edge slab.

LaRae’s lair, where she practices the art of quilting. She organizes tours in the region for friends to visit different quilting stores in the Midwest.

LaRae goes in for bigger stuff like cabinetry. She is also an accomplished quilter and had quite the setup in their basement. She was very sharp, and we had a lot of similar interests. She reminded me so much of my friend Laura, whom we will visit on this trip.

She introduced me to a new regional saying:

Opherphun

(Oh-For-Fun)

Richard let me drive his Bobcat – Opherphun! Jake hopped on, and we had a good time driving it to the end of the road. He took me to a nearby farming area where I got to climb in a huge John Deere tractor. We met up with a guy he used to work with spraying his crops. We spoke to him for a while. While talking about his 16-year-old son, he used the expression:

Uff Da!

My trip was complete! I actually heard a local use the word. It was priceless, as was the opportunity to meet all these beautiful people in this part of America.

I was sitting in a giant green tractor in a cornfield somewhere in southeast North Dakotaβ€”the Heartland.

I think I am beginning to understand nowβ€”hardworking people who love the land. May I be forever humbled.


We reached the top of the roller coaster! Now, we slide south from North Dakota to Arkansas! In the process, I will add the final state to my list of visited states β€”Nebraska. I stopped once at the airport, but that didn’t count. Also, South Dakota, Iowa, Missouri, and Oklahomaβ€”right smack through Tornado country!

Fields of Corn

Somewhere in Illinois

The next three days were spent leisurely heading north through Illinois, using a combination of Interstates and backroads to see the local scenery. And what, pray tell, did we see? Fields of Corn!

Heartland Illinois

In several areas, we saw quite extensive wind farms.

Wind farms in the heartland

Our first night was on the Illinois River near Peoria. The campground was in an area with extensive earthworks on Upper Peoria Lake. I’m not sure what that was about.

Upper Peoria Lake on the Illinois River
Upper Peoria Lake

The next day, we drove north through Ronald Reagan’s boyhood home in Dixon, Illinois. This whole area feels nondescript. It’s very odd.

Boyhood home of Ronnie Raygun
The Rock River in Dixon, Illinois

The scenery got more interesting after that, with small rolling hills and more Fields of Corn. There were also fields of Soybeans, but they were not nearly as impressive 🀣.

Illinois River

We stayed overnight in northern Illinois and experienced our first hard rain of the trip. It continued to rain during our visit to Wisconsin.


Somewhere in Wisconsin

Our goal for the last day was to drive the Great River Road of southern Wisconsin.

We headed for Prarie du Chen and began the trip northwards. This is where Armand (Carl’s Father-in-Law) hauls his grain from his farm in Viroqua to be loaded on barges and taken downriver.

Might Mississippi near flood stage

The Mississippi was nearing flood stage, making for spectacular vistas as we slowly made our way northwards.

Wisconsin Great River Road

One can only imagine a raft of lumber 270 feet wide and 1550 feet long being moved down the mighty river. It must have been an impressive sight!


La Crosse

Our journey through this part of the heartland was complete! Now, we will spend time with one of the two families living in the heartland as we reach nephew Carl and his wife, Dr Kari, and the Tubridy pride-and-joy, Theodore!


Gateway to the West

St Louis – Gateway to the West

A statue of Seaman, the Newfoundland dog, accompanied Lewis and Clark on their famous expedition, which started in Saint Louis.


Saint Louis played a pivotal role in forming the new United States. Originally founded by the French, it traded back and forth with Spain before becoming part of the United States with the Louisiana Purchase. From there, it evolved into a nexus for expansion to the West. Best known, perhaps, was the expedition of Lewis and Clark, commissioned by Thomas Jefferson following the purchase.

Sunrise at Gateway Arch National Park

Sunrise at Gateway Arch National Park

We woke and left early to catch the sunrise at Gateway Arch. I had toured the Arch itself many years ago while on a business trip. I remember it being quite an experience, and I had no desire to do it again.

Gateway Arch in front of downtown St Louis

When we are in a new area, I always try to find a park where Jake and I can catch the sunrise. We made it downtown and came to the stark realization that there was no giant parking lot like every other National Park! However, there are nice hotels beside it with expensive hourly parking. I paid more for a one-hour ticket than the trip to the Botanical Garden later in the morning.

Jake on the stairs of the Gateway Arch

It was all worth it when we got thereβ€”all by ourselves, more or less. We walked around the Arch. It truly is a magnificent sight and engineering achievement. I am frankly amazed it looks so goodβ€”a testimony to its designer.

Lewis, Clark & Seaman the dog – perhaps the most famous of all American explorers

We were happy to find a beautiful bronze statue of Lewis, Clark, and their faithful dog, Seaman, on the waterfront. A Newfoundland dog, he survived the trip and was renowned for the service he provided the two Captains on their journey in the early 1800s.

The US Courthouse
Sunrise on the Mississippi River

Missouri Botanical Gardens

Missouri Botanical Garden – Water plants with Climatron for tropical plants in the background.

Kari went to Medical School in St Louis. She recommended the Botanical Gardens. With Jake safely back at the trailer, I ventured into St Louis for a visit.

Missouri Botanical Garden

The museum dates back to 1859 and has a collection of preserved plants (a herbarium) with over 6.6 million specimens. It occupies 79 acres in an area southwest of the Gateway Arch.

Missouri Botanical Gardens – Rose Garden

I was impressed by the very well-kept gardens, meticulously labeled and tended to by a seeming army of volunteers and workers. In fact, there were more of them early in the morning than actual visitors! Like the earlier visit, I felt like I had the place to myself.

Missouri Botanical Garden – Japanese Gardens

The Japanese gardens were very large, occupying over 25 acres. The Climatarium held a vast collection of tropical plants in an amazing setting. The flowers were full in bloom and beautiful.

Missouri Botanical Garden – Climatron Tropical Plants

It was a bit overwhelming! I spent a few hours walking the gardens, but you could easily spend a day here. It was a great visit!



We will spend the next few days heading northwards to reach La Crosse, where we will spend a few days with Theo & family!

Mississippi River

Crossing the Heartland

Fields of Corn

One of my all-time musicians is Pat Metheny. He hails from Missouri. I love his song (Cross The) Heartland. For some reason, when I think of crossing the heartland, I think of endless fields of corn.

The trip to St Louis went north through Kentucky and crossed into Indiana near Evansville. None of that was too attractive, and Evansville was another of many towns where the old infrastructure was being replaced in real time.

Ohio River between Illinois and Indiana

This eventually led to Illinois when we crossed the Ohio River. We stayed right across the river at Grayville, which was surrounded by fields of Corn.

Grayville KOA
Jake was admiring the Fields of Corn.

The campground was a bit unusual. It looked like it was trying to be a bigger deal than it was. But they had a great restaurant, and I treated myself to a Midwest hamburger from cows raised on all that corn. Delicious!

Grayville KOA – It looked like they tried to make this more of an attraction than it actually was 🀣

The next morning we drove a bit north through beautiful farmland. Corn everywhere. A lot of dairy farms.

We made it to the campground mid afternoon. It was hot and a dip in the swimming pool was great!


Tommorrow we explore St Louis!

Ohio River

Cavelands

After three days of traveling, our first stop was in the ‘Cavelands’ of Kentucky. This area north of Bowling Green has more known cave systems than anywhere else in the world 🌎. The largest is Mammoth Caves National Park. The area has a rich history of explorers and entrepreneurs looking for ways to capitalize on Mother Nature. It is also a beautiful horse country with rolling hills of green grass.

Horse Cave

Horse Cave KOA – Glamping, Camping & RVs (for the rest of us)

We stayed about 30 minutes from the national park at a campground in Horse Cave. As the sign says, it features camping and glampingβ€”roughing it in style. They had an assortment of Tee Pees, Tree Houses, Covered Wagons, Cabins, and RV sites. There were lots for kids to do, including a slide and a giant jumping balloon.

I drove into Horse Cave proper to shop and take in the sights. Half the main street was torn up, with no apparent detours. I guess the locals knew how to do it. I found myself in a neighborhood with rotting trailers and large, vicious dogs. I did my shopping and got the heck out of Dodge 🀩.


Mammoth Cave

Mammoth Cave is the most extensive mapped cave system in the world. The geological formations that enable this are a limestone layer (with the caves) underneath a sandstone layer (like a roof). This makes for a very stable formation.

Tourist guide printed in the late 1800s. The caves attracted international attention.

It has a fascinating history dating back over 5,000 years. Native Americans lived in and around the caves where many artifacts, including a mummy, were found!

The caves became an international tourist attraction in the 1800s. Ranger Eric told us that tourists from New York came in their Sunday finest to view the muddy caves. Remains of their meals can be found scattered throughout the caves.

In the early 1900s, the infamous “Kentucky Cave Wars’ resulted in shysters and conmen vying for the tourist trade. It seemed locals would go to no length to get the tourist dollars.

The rich Kentuckians decided to take matters into their own hands and prepare the way for it to become a national park. This process was especially contentious because it involved imminent domain. Thousands of people were unhappily relocated. (See the previous post on the Tennessee River Valeyβ€”no wonder people in this part of the country distrust the Federal Government.)

It finally became a National Park in the 1940s.


The total distance explored to date is more than 426 miles. The depth of the caves below the surface is between 400 and 800 feet. Explorers in the 1900s were able to determine the likelihood of a cave passage from surface features. These early surveys were hidden from general knowledge for fear of the caves not belonging to the landowners.

Extent of Mammoth Cave System 2021 – Wikipedia

Active exploration continues today.

The Grand Tour

I was not disappointed when I embarked on the 4-hour Grand Tour. The tour truly lived up to its name, offering a grand experience of the cave system’s many facets. Ranger Eric’s expertise and engaging, folksy style of explaining the history and formations added a delightful layer to the experience.

A short bus ride leads you to the entrance for the 4-hour tour. The temperatures were cool but not cold, with an ever-so-slight breeze.

Despite my initial concerns about my 69-year-old knees and back, I found the route surprisingly manageable. The well-packed dirt, concrete pathways, and sturdy handrails made the journey a breeze. It was a testament to the cave system’s accessibility, reassuring me that physical limitations need not hinder such a grand adventure.

The first part of the tour winds through a passage created by flowing water.

The journey was indeed challenging, but the well-timed rest stops (two with bathrooms) provided a much-needed respite. The real thrill, however, was in the intriguing cave formations, particularly Boone’s Passageway. Its narrow spots and low ceilings added a unique and thrilling element to the adventure, making it an experience like no other.

The four miles were divided into three segments. The first was relatively open and level. The second took you through a tall and narrow section. The third featured towering staircases and areas where water formed stalagmites.

All in all, it was a stunning but exhausting experience! I felt a bit better meeting Bob at the end of the journey. He’s 80 years old and was my hero for the day!


Friday was a day off for shopping and recovering from the 4-mile walk. I was very sore and desperately missed my hot tub. Tomorrow, we raise anchor and head for St. Louisβ€”Gateway to the West.